|
The Pier Hotel and Landseer Building, Milang |
In Milang -- a haphazard town drowsing on a lake shore with its feet in the past and an uncertain future ahead -- I met an American who was in South Australia's Lakes District to track down her Scottish ancestors.
One Saturday night in the Pier Hotel I
heard the unmistakable accent and turned to see a woman of forty or
fifty: tall, strong bodied, with chestnut hair silvering at the
temples. She was elbowing for space at a bar dominated by boaties and
fishermen. Being already there, I turned sideways to make space and
beckoned her in.
“You're American,” I observed.
“Damn, what gave me away?” She
forced a chuckle -- she'd heard the line a thousand times. “Also
Canadian, Scots and just a little bit Australian.”
“On holiday down here?”
“Looking for family who came over a
long time ago.” She offered her hand. “Jo Campbell.”
I shook the hand. “Chris Daley.” I
waited till she'd received a Gordon's with Cascade tonic, then led
her to the stools under the high-mounted TV. Cricket was streaming
from India, where Australia was being walloped in the third test.
“You got family around here?” I
wondered after a long swallow of Coopers.
“Somewhere,” she sighed, “but I
can't find them.” She hunted through her bag and produced a crisp
new copy of an ancient photo of two young men, sepia and soft by the
standards of modern photography. I frowned over it as she told me a
little.
In 1889 two brothers sat on the side of
a hay wagon in the hills near Loch Lomond and looked into the camera
lens. Within the year one of them would go to Canada, the other to
Australia. The new Canadian, Donald Campbell, found his way to
Alberta, married an English girl and sired a tribe. His boy Jamie got
work in Oregon in 1912, married an American and stayed to have two
daughters and a son. Jo Campbell was born in 1964 and cherished
memories of 'Gramps,' a tall man in his nineties who loved to spin
stories of lumberjacking in BC as a youth, and in Oregon as a man.
The other brother, Gordon, landed in
South Australia at Christmas, 1889. In letters home he said he put
his cash into a small property and modest herd. With the Great War
raging over Europe, the local Campbells ran beef cattle along the
marshy coast between Milang and Clayton; and sometime in the 1920s
they seemed to vanish into the ether.
|
Cattle country on the shore of Lake Alexandrina. |
Floods of biblical proportions
frequently overwhelm this area. More than likely, Gordon Campbell was
ruined in a natural disaster and wound up working on another property
not far from the land he had owned.
“You've looked at the parish
records?” I asked.
She took a sip of G&T and nodded.
“He married a girl called Maggie. No family name was recorded.”
Her brow creased. “Is that weird, or did the locals often forget
the bride's maiden name in those days?”
“Not as a rule,” I mused. “She
might have been indigenous. Maggie
probably wouldn't have been her birth name, and it's possible the
parson omitted the full name because he couldn't even guess how to
spell it.”
“Indigenous?”
Jo's eyes widened.
For a split second
I wondered if she might take umbrage. You stumble over racism
in the least expected places, but these days it's so rare, one tends
to speak unguardedly. I needn't have worried.
Blue-green
eyes sparkled. “I hadn't thought of that. Gives me another line of
inquiry -- and I know just who to talk to.” She finished the
drink and hopped off the stool. “You staying in town?”
“At the motel.” I gestured along
past the shops and the historic railway exhibit. “I'm doing routine
water sampling, so I'll be here a few days.”
|
Milang Station, end of an extinct line and now a standing exhibit. In winter or early spring it's green. |
“I'll catch up with you,” she
promised.
And she did. On Tuesday I heard my name
called in strident tones as I stepped out of the general store with a
tall coffee. “Hey, you came up with something,” I hazarded -- an
easy guess, going by the big smiles.
“I talked to a retired priest, old as
God, lives halfway to Strathalbyn. Father Pat remembers local
Campbells in the '30s and '40s. He says they moved across the lakes
before I was born. They live in some place called Raukkan. D'you know
it? How d'you get there from here?”
I knew it quite well: a quiet little
place on the far shore of Lake Alexandrina, in the Narrung region.
“It's quite a drive,” I told her, “but the roads are good and
it's pretty country.”
“No bus?” she asked hopefully.
“No bus. What's wrong with your car?”
“On the fritz. I did the rent-a-wreck
thing, and I'm regretting it -- don't think I want to to take off for
the wilderness in that thing.”
“Not quite the wilderness,”
I chuckled, “but...” I glanced at my watch. “What the hell?
Grab your bags and kick in twenty for petrol, and we're outta here.”
We were on the road minutes later. She
was installed in rooms behind the Landseer building, and ran back for
her bag and camera. My Land Cruiser was beat up but utterly reliable,
and I pointed it at Langhorne, Wellington and, far off, Narrung,
without a qualm.
|
The Narrung road -- in November, almost summer. Far side of Lake Alexandrina. |
Good weather, chicken salad rolls and a
lot of Johnny Cash passed the time. It's beautiful country: gentle
hills, vast skies, and the further out you get, the better I like it.
Peace and quiet settle over the land, giving a tenuous impression of
how it might have been before Europeans intruded.
|
Narrung car ferry. |
We waited for the Narrung ferry and
then, just after noon, I stopped a few meters short of the town
boundary. The stone gateway is marked Raukkan on one side,
Nguldi Arndu on the other.
It's an indigenous town: laid back,
quiet, isolated, single storey building line, houses sprawled wide
because there's elbow room aplenty -- fronting onto the vast blue expanse of the lake.
Jo read the roadside infoboards, shaded
her eyes with one hand and wondered,
“How would I find a guy
called Uncle Ben Campbell?”
|
Gateway to the town of Raukkan. |
“Try the post office,” I suggested.
“They'll definitely know where he lives. They won't hand out his
address, but they can send a message. If he wants to meet, he'll be
here.”
She peered back at the infoboard. “Post
office...”
“Straight ahead on your right, past
the clinic.” I pointed. “Look, I'll stay in the car. This is a
family affair. You're the Campbells, I'm just the transportation.”
I watched her walk on into town and
listened to quiet so profound, a warbling magpie seemed unpardonably
loud. You don't hear such quiet in any city. I find it as humbling as
it's pacifying … for a moment one realizes how infinitesimal humans
are, lost in infinities of space we can't even visualize, much less
comprehend.
Six assorted kids chased a soccer ball
down the street; a crow called from the roof of the sandstone hall
with the smart new galvanized roof; a flight of pelicans went gliding
between Lakes Albert and Alexandrina, right over my head, white
against the blue.
In fifteen minutes Jo jogged back up
the road with a cautious smile and the wind in the copper-and-silver
hair. “I'm invited to the drop-in centre for tea. Wanna be my 'plus
one'?”
“For tea? Sure.” I was parched.
The drop-in centre is right by the old
post office, facing the park. The kids were playing footy there now
-- Aussie rules with a soccer ball, and a great time being had by
all. Kids don't change, the world over; it's adults who write the
rules, then break them every chance they get and make trouble. Jo and
I settled in a corner of the centre, which was almost deserted at
this hour. The chance to get out of the sun was welcome, and no cuppa
tastes better than the one you didn't make yourself.
We waited half an hour for Ben Campell,
and I held my breath, hoping for Jo's sake. She'd told me a little of
her own story, and I knew she was the last of her clan from North
America. The name disappeared when the daughters scattered across
the globe with their husbands; after the world wars, only her father,
another Jamie, remained to perpetuate the name. He passed away,
leaving Jo the only surviving Campbell -- the last of her line who
identified as Campbell. She'd lost touch with the
distant cousins in Ontario, New Zealand, Illinois. One erstwhile
Campbell daughter was said to be back in Scotland, but with the name
gone and the bloodline diluted, they were difficult to find and
seemed reluctant to correspond.
So here were the last actual Campbells
descended from the intrepid Gordon and Donald. One was a six-foot,
sturdy American; the other stepped in out of the sun, and I crossed
my fingers. Ben Campbell was close to full-blood Ngarrindjeri. I
stepped back, not wanting to be in the way. Someone at the post
office had sent a coherent message, and Raukkan's surviving Campbell
was as curious as the one from Portland, Oregon.
He was over eighty, but
straight-backed, thin and wiry, with snowy hair and beard -- in
bluejeans, sweatshirt, sneakers, the uniform of every generation.
Ben studied Jo from under a white bush of brows. Dark eyes took her apart, limb from limb, and put her back together. I guess he
recognized a fellow Campbell, because he brought out
his wallet and produced an ancient photograph.
“Oh, my,” Jo whispered, and dug though her bag.
The two photos sat side by side on the
table between the empty cups. Hers was a recent copy, faithfully
reproducing every crease and scratch. His was old, fragile, printed
on card, the original sepia, no hint of gloss. The same photo.
They pulled up chairs, sent for more
tea and talked. They'd talk for hours, but I stayed just long enough
to learn that Gordon married the local girl and fought with the
family back home over it. He never had the chance to mention Maggie
was Ngarrindjeri -- which could have been an issue a century ago --
because he'd originally promised to wait for his childhood
sweetheart to arrive out here … both families back home were too furious to
acknowledge another letter. A fire reduced his property to scorched
earth in 1916, so he worked on a station between Clayton and Finiss
until '24, and retired to Poltaloch, across the lake. His boy, Donald, married a full-blood Ngarrindjeri lass and had one surviving son to
carry on the family name.
Benjamin was still alive and well, and
living in Raukkan.
Jo and Ben had so much to talk about.
They'd both forgotten me,so I wrote my name and number on a postcard
and left it with the girl at the counter. If I was needed, they'd
call.
With a smile I stepped back into the
sun, hands in pockets, contemplating the drive back to Milang in the
growing afternoon shadows.
oOoooOoooOo
This is fiction, though it's set in real places and the story is so perfectly possible, I'd actually be surprised if something similar hasn't happened. Maybe a Canadian tracking down Irish ancestors.
Dave and I went right around Lake Alexandrina on my 2015 "birthday trip" -- that is, an overnight getaway, where we'll stay at the Milang Lakes motel on Saturday night, and be able to go further the next day, before turning for home.
Here we are parked beside the infoboard described above -- the town gate is just out of frame to the right...
And here's the left-side poster you see in the little shelter there -- a kind of tourist guide to the Narrung and Corrong regions. (The image is uploaded at full size and is perfectly readable.)
It's a gorgeous part of the world, one of my favorites. If you're interested, there's more about Milang, the Lakes District and so forth, on my old travel blog,
Meander to the Max. I'm remembering four or five posts featuring Milang, so -- browse around, you'll find them.
(Dang, I need to do some work on the travel blog. There's about another 50 posts I need to make, without delay. More. Must set aside an hour or two here and there, and see what I can do.)